Pierrot
had been a student of Harish
Johari for many years, but he never could visit India
because of a rather severe physical disability. Due to a limb-girdle
muscular dystrophy disease, he needs an electric wheelchair
to move around with and rather continuous breathing aid.
Fortunately, due to the support of the Johari
family in Hardwar and some friends within Sanatan Society,
Pierrot could realize this dream. In the spring of 2003 he
made a 3-week trip to Hardwar,
one of the four holy cities along the Ganges
in India.
This short report of that trip was made by one
of the people who helped him on the way. It is mostly a nice
memory, but also a clear call to anybody else with plans or
hopes to travel India in a wheelchair. To put it in the words
of Pierrot "You kind of have to accept that you might
die along the way, but it is certainly worth it !".
In
retrospect, it wasn't very difficult at all. We had some heavy
worries at the start, especially when it came to medical care,
Pierrot being generally very sensitive to infections of the
respiratory tract. However, stuffed with some potent gem powders,
the great food prepared at the Johari House and an incredible
sense of optimism, Pierrot suffered no illness whatsoever.
Of course we had been very careful as to what to drink and
eat along the way, as any westener should. And overall, hygiene
has greatly improved in India, as has air pollution. All in
all however, a sense of divine protection could hardly be
ignored...
Transportation
proved to be somewhat more difficult. To cover the 5 hour
trip from New Delhi to Hardwar, we had to rent a rather expensive
ambulance. It was the only vehicle we could find in which
Pierrot could remain in the wheelchair while traveling. Other
cars were simply not high enough, because India favours 4-wheeldrive
jeeps to vans. Sitting in a car chair is only possible for
Pierrot for a short period of time, especially taking into
account conditions on the indian roads. Once in Hardwar, we
frequently rented a Tata Sumo. It could take the wheelchair
with Pierrot sitting in front of the car, so we only used
it for short trips in and around Hardwar and once we also
visited the nearby town of Rishikesh. But that had been the
idea from the start, so apart from the problem of getting
a 150 Kg wheelchair in and out of that high-wheeled vehicle,
it was great (We used metal telescopic ramps which we brought
from Belgium for that purpose).
Sightseeing
in Hardwar proved to be a lot easier than expected. Since
there are no pavements and since the roads are kept drivable
for small carts, rikshas, etc.. Pierrot's wheelchair could
basically go anywhere. It was a lot easier to move around
compared to most western cities. In New-Delhi for example,
pavements have been installed everywhere and are heavily guarded
from those same carts and rikshas, so moving around in Delhi
was extremely slow. In Rishikesh it was the same as in Hardwar.
We could actually cross the river on one bridge, walk/drive
all the way down to another bridge and pass it back to the
car. Another worry - that of dangerously chaotic traffic -
proved no problem at all. People were so astonished seeing
the electric wheelchair driving around "all by itself",
that we were continuously shielded from the traffic by a big
crowd. Likewise, drivers also stopped or at least slowed down
when they spotted us.
In
India disabled people can be seen everywhere and especially
in the most frequently places where many have to beg for a
living. The rather massive attention that we got had little
to do with the curiosity disabled people seem to attract in
the West, but everything with the electric wheelchair. The
pumps and tubes of the breathing machine even added to the
suspense. As Pierrot rather enjoys wearing saddhu-garbs, some
people thought he made the chair drive around by pure will
power. Explaining that it simply used car batteries as a power
source made sense to most. Disabled people begging on Harkipuri
in the centre of Hardwar would cheer as Pierrot drove by,
clearly seeing him as a champion of their "kind".
Elder people would come to us with tears in their eyes, saying
that now they had seen this wheelchair, they had less fear
for becoming disabled when getting older. We do expect seeing
some maybe more simple electric wheelchairs appearing in
Hardwar in the coming years and certainly hope so.
Charging the wheelchair batteries and some
other medical equipment every night was no real problem, though
we blew the fuses at the start. The house had an electricity
generator in case the electricity supply would be cut off,
but miraculously this happened only once in those 3 weeks.
We had a handpump in case the breathing machine would stop
and many hands around. That is really all there is to say
about technical problems and solutions. They were really not
much off a problem and certainly could not keep Pierrot and
all of us from having a really good and inspiring time.
In
Hardwar, we visited the local shops and Harkipuri, the central
ghat where a beautiful Aarti celebration took place at dusk.
We also visited many temples around Hardwar and followed the
Ganges river. Of course we made many visits to Mataji
in the Santosh
Puri ashram, where we also took part in a Homa worship
ceremony.
During
the festival of Holi,
Pierrot could celebrate the typical Holi ceremony together
with the Johari family. The Johari house also proved to be
a warmly welcoming place where one could also find some peace
and fun. The high-up roof provided an incredible view over
the Hardwar valley.
Last but not least we like to thank everybody
that helped us along the way and in the Johari house. And
not in the least we like to give special thanks to the General
Manager of Swiss Air in New Delhi, who did a fantastic job
in getting us into India and back home again without much
trouble or extra costs. |